Care and Handling

Why Posy's Flowers Last
Our customers frequently tell us how surprised they are with the longevity of the flowers they purchase from Posy. We hear all the time that they get 10 days, two weeks, and sometimes longer from our arrangements. We love to hear this because we go to great lengths to care for our flowers properly.

One of the reasons that flowers purchased from a grocery store or discount warehouse don't last is that they are not conditioned before being sold and they are not stored at the optimal temperature - often they are not refrigerated at all. Our cooler is specially designed for flower storage, keeping them at the optimal temperature and humidity. Cooler temperatures slow metabolic activity of the flowers dramatically; conversely, warmer temperatures speed the metabolic activity (which is why you should never place flowers in a sunny window or leave them in a hot car for any length of time). Basically, when the flowers are in the cooler they are "asleep" and don't wake up until they are brought into room temperature. So, if flowers are stored at room temperature, the clock has already begun ticking...

While "vase life" does vary among different flower varieties, most commercially grown flowers will last at least a week, and many longer than that if properly cared for. There are several things you can do once you get your flowers home to increase their longevity:

Cut Flower Care

• Remove foliage that will sit below the water line of the container. Foliage that sits in water will encourage the growth of bacteria and fungus, causing the water to turn murky and shortening the vase life of the arrangement.
  
  
• Re-cut stems
  Always use clean, sharp utensils when cutting your flowers. Knives or sharp floral clippers are best. Never use ordinary household scissors, which will crush the vascular system of the flower and prevent proper water uptake. Remove at least 1 inch from the bottom of all flowers that have been out of water for any length of time, making a diagonal cut to allow for maximum water absorption. Many sources tell you to cut the stems underwater, but we know almost no one does this; just make sure you put the flowers in water as soon as you cut them.
  
  
• Conditioning
  In a freshly cleaned container, mix flower food with warm water in the proportions indicated on the package (the exception is bulb flowers such as Tulips and Anemones, which prefer very cold water.) It is critical to use the correct proportion of flower food to water; too much or too little can shorten vase life. If you buy flowers regularly, we recommend purchasing a tub of flower food from the shop so you can keep the proportion of food correct as you top up the vase over the life of the arrangement.
  
  We know there are many popular myths about using copper coins, aspirin, lemonade, or bleach in the water instead of commercial flower food, and while each one may address a portion of the flowers' needs, they can't protect your flowers adequately, and can sometimes do more harm than good. We strongly recommend using commercial flower food for the longest vase life.
  


• Placement
  Place flowers out of direct sunlight, heat and draughts. Do not place them near fruit, as fruit produces ethylene gas which is harmful to most cut flowers.
  
  
• Maintenance
  Top up the water in your arrangement as needed and change the water in the vase every two days. If you allow the flowers to dry out, you must re-cut the stems, as once they are dry they will no longer drink even if you add more water. If water becomes murky or you notice an unpleasant smell, temporarily move the flowers to an alternate container with fresh water, and thoroughly wash the vase before replacing flowers in fresh water mixed with flower food.
  

Flower Food
Flower food is the other key ingredient to maximizing the life of your flowers. Cut flowers need a source of energy. Most people open the package they receive with their flowers and dump the whole thing in regardless of the amount of water. Flower food is only effective if mixed in the correct quantity. Follow the instructions on the package.

Flower food is made of sugar to feed the flower, an antibacterial agent to prevent bacteria, and citric acid to adjust the pH of the water. Too much sugar and too little antibacterial agent means that you are actually feeding the bacteria, and have eliminated any possibility of killing them!

There are different products available on the market today which address the specific needs of certain flowers. For example, Gerbera Daisies and Roses don't need much sugar because the flower is fully open at the time of purchase, but the hairy stems of the Gerbera are a breeding ground for bacteria. These blooms need more antibacterial agent and less sugar, and therefore a special flower food has been developed to address this need. We use it to condition and store our flowers in the shop, which increases the vase life and helps to prevent "bent neck", the most common problem with Gerberas and Roses.

Treatment for Specific Flowers
Several commonly purchased flowers have some very specific care and handling quirks. Many of these things I have learned from other floral designers and know first-hand that they work!

• Lilies
  Lilies are shipped from the growers "closed" so that their delicate blooms don't get damaged in transit. It can take up to a week for lilies to open once they are placed in warmer temperatures. To encourage lilies to open, place them in warm water in a warm location with a plastic bag over the blooms.
  
  As most of you know, the brown or yellow anthers in the center of a lily will permanently stain anything they contact, so they are best removed just as the bloom is opening and before they turn to pollen. Sometimes this is impossible; the secret to removing the pollen from the inside of the flower (or anything else) is with a pipe cleaner! Lightly drag the pipe cleaner over the pollen to absorb it.
  
  If you get pollen on your clothes or furniture, take a piece of tape and lightly pat the sticky side over it to lift it from the fabric. If the pollen has penetrated the fabric, try placing it in direct sunlight for a few hours; sometimes the stain will simply disappear.
  
  
• Daffodils/Narcissus
  When cut, Daffodils and Narcissus emit a milky substance which is toxic to other flowers. It is best to arrange them alone in their own container. If you must mix them in an arrangement, let them condition in their own container for 12 hours before arranging, and do not re-cut.
  
  
• Tulips
  When purchasing Tulips in bunches, you can keep the stems from curving too steeply by wrapping the heads in heavy paper and leaving them to drink for several hours. Alternatively, you can make a small hole below the base of each bloom with a pin, which will release air bubbles and help promote straight stems. If you want them to curve and bend just leave them alone! Keep in mind that Tulips can grow up to an inch per day after they have been cut, so if you find your arrangement is starting to look out of proportion, simply pull the Tulips out, re-cut them, and replace them to preserve the shape of the arrangement.
  
  
• Planter Baskets
  Keep soil most but never let pots sit in water. Place your planter in a moderately bright location but away from excessive heat or cold. If your basket contains flowering plants, prune off the spent blooms to encourage new growth.
  
  
• Bulb Flowers
  There is a special type of flower food on the market today designed to enhance the life of bulb flowers. A common problem with bulb flowers is premature leaf-yellowing, which can turn an arrangement from beautiful to ugly pretty quickly! This bulb-specific food contains an additional ingredient to help prevent this problem, and has been shown to increase vase life by over 25%. When you purchase bulb flowers, we will give you this type of food. For arrangements that contain both bulb and non-bulb flowers, bulb food is your best choice. Some common bulb flowers are:
  
  

	Anemones (spring--summer)	Alstromeria
	Alliums (summer)	Daffodils
	Dahlias	Freesia
	Fritillaria	Gladiolus
	Hyacinths	Iris
	Liatris	Lily of the Valley
	Lillies (Oriental & Hybrid)	Muscari
	Narcissus	Nerines
	Ranuculas	Stars of Bethlehem
	Tuberoses	Tulips